READERS will be aware of the story so far. We have taken on a new dog called ‘Diesel’ who is around 12 months of age with some training under his belt and he is now going through a period of settling in with his new family.

Under the expert eye of professional gundog trainer, Phil Parkins, we’ve begun some training proper and I’m beginning to realise that it’s me who’s going to need most of the tuition.

It’s clear that too much dummy work is going to bore ‘Diesel’ as he has a good nose and is very interested in the wildlife around him. Canvas dummies and tennis balls are not going to hold his attention for long and, according to Phil, boredom is something to be avoided at all costs. Once this sets in the dog will prefer his own infinitely more interesting company than your own.

Subsequently I am now working ‘Diesel’ for only short periods each day, concentrating on getting him through interesting bits of cover like long grass and the occasional small bed of nettles.

In this way we are recreating work in the field at a more realistic level and keeping his interest for longer. It’s crucial he is praised and rewarded at each of these lessons as his ability to act on his own initiative and find lost birds is going to be a big part of his adult life and a key requisite of my shooting companion.

We are now training for around 15 minutes a day, focussing on a specific lesson each time. That may be using the stop whistle at a distance or perhaps the use of hand signals to direct him. Once a week we may have some simple retrieves to keep his eye in.

‘Diesel’ found the stop whistle hard to come to terms with at first but, as with most other things, he quickly got the message once I put it across in an appropriate way.

I made the usual beginner’s mistake of trying to attempt to teach this at a distance when there is really no need. ‘Diesel’ couldn’t quite understand what I wanted from him when I was asking him to stop from 30 yards away and I discovered how frustrating it can be for both of you when you go about teaching something the wrong way.

A quick chat to Phil soon put things right. The key was to work at a much closer distance of about ten yards. The stop whistle – one drawn out blast – was accompanied by a raised hand, palm facing the dog, and the command ‘sit.’ If the command was not followed immediately you can then get to the dog quickly and make him sit with a firm follow up.

It wasn’t long before we were able to increase the distance and now, after no more than a couple of weeks of introducing this, he will respond to the whistle from 100 yards or more.

With the benefit of hindsight it occurs to me that most things should be taught up close and personal and the distance increased only when the lesson has been completely absorbed and confidence gained.

Having made sure I combined the stop whistle with fun retrieves, I know that ‘Diesel’ will now respond to it eagerly rather than with a pained ‘What does he want now?’ expression on his face.

I have also found the stop whistle very useful in general steadiness and obedience training. It has proved invaluable in dissuading ‘Diesel’ from chasing rabbits, getting distracted by other dogs or simply getting carried away on his own. The whistle makes him stop, look and listen, and brings him back under my working control.

I only wish I could get my children to respond in a similar fashion!